To all the amazing mothers out there, I want to express my deepest admiration for your incredible strength and resilience. I might not know the details of your journey, but I am confident that every one of you has a powerful story to share.
Here's a glimpse into my journey...
Competing in surfing has been my lifelong passion, with the ultimate dream of making it onto the world tour and claiming a championship title. I dedicated myself to the sport, achieving significant milestones as an amateur. However, at the age of 20, I faced a substantial setback after sustaining 5 consecutive concussions within six months, which forced me to take a two-year hiatus to fully recover. Then, at 22, I received the unexpected news of my pregnancy. While I had always envisioned becoming a mother, the timing surprised me. Despite this, I was fully committed to embracing the incredible responsibility of nurturing a new life. Little did I know the challenges that awaited me!
The initial stages of my pregnancy proved to be especially arduous, marked by intense morning sickness that lasted months. I also struggled with my body and all the changes it was going through, including developing stretch marks at 3 months pregnant. This was all during the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic, so I kept my circle small and just went to work and home. I also ended up getting COVID-19 bad at 9 months pregnant, and my body was undergoing a lot of stress trying to keep me and my daughter alive. I got through it, but afterward, my pregnancy became 10 times harder. I experienced unbearable headaches, significant swelling, and other challenges. A month later, I was diagnosed with preeclampsia and had already been dealing with it undiagnosed. By the time I received the diagnosis, my body was already starting to shut down. My blood pressure was dangerously high, and I had to undergo a rushed induction that day. I ended up being in labor for 5 days because my body wasn't able to relax and do what it was supposed to do. I ended up having a hard birth followed by 8 months of intense high blood pressure throughout my postpartum. I gained 100 pounds during my pregnancy due to preeclampsia, and I knew I had a long road ahead of me to even think about getting in the water. It was one of the wildest seasons of my life, filled with an overwhelming sense of love but also an overwhelming sense of loss. I was trying to learn how to love my new self while striving to get back to my old self.
I got back in the water as soon as I could, but it was one of my lowest times. With the hit my body took, I couldn't paddle or even hold up my neck, and I couldn't even stand up. I lost the biggest part of my life, my greatest passion. I didn't just lose who I was, I lost what I loved. But I wasn't about to give up. I was determined to work hard and get back to my home, my favorite place in the world. I won't lie to you and say it was easy or that I quickly got back into it. I was on a longboard for 6 months before even trying to move back to my shortboard, all while having a newborn at home, getting hopefully 2 hours a week to try and get back to who I was.
It took me a while, but I got there. Now, every time I step foot in the ocean, I'm so grateful and humbled because I remember what it took to get here. My passion for surfing has grown, knowing the privilege we have that our body allows us to do this sport. My daughter is 2 now, and I would like to say I've figured out how to juggle my passion and motherhood, but it's never going to be an easier phase - it's just going to be a different phase. We, as mothers, just have to keep adapting and learning. It's an everyday juggle to put everything into your child while also putting just as much into yourself. That's why I respect all of you mothers for what you have been through and what you are currently going through!
I want to express my deep respect and admiration for all the incredible mothers out there. Each one of you has a unique and powerful story, and I am in awe of your strength and resilience.
I'm excited to be able to go more in-depth about some of these topics, but for now, that's some of my story. I can't wait to know yours! Let's keep moving forward together, supporting each other.
Imua <3

Kahanu,
Just wanted to drop a note and mahalo you for sharing your story and a first glimpse into your journey. I really appreciate your vulnerability which is real and relatable. Your authenticity allows me and others to embrace our own and have the courage to share. Proud of you for all you've been through and for where you are today. Look forward to sharing some waves together and catching up in person sometime soon.
Lots of love to you and your fam,
Riss